Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cambodia. Show all posts

February 2, 2011

South East Asia on a shoestring 4: AMAZING ANGKOR

6th Day – Hot Siem Reap and AMAZING ANGKOR

 I have always wanted to go to Angkor. So when I got the flight ticket to Ho Chi Minh, the number one destination should be Angkor, built by the Khmer civilization between 802 and 1220 AD in Cambodia :D. So .. here I am now in Siem Reap, the city where Angkor Temples located. We packed our carrier and then moving to our confirmed guest house by tuktuk. After check in and Grace also Felis having their indomie (they cook indomie in the hostel kitchen :D) we start our journey to Angkor. We book tuk tuk 12 dollars from morning until afternoon. If you wish to see sunrise or sunset you have to pay 18 dollars.


Siem Reap city is really nice not too big but it has complete facilities. Since this city is the major tourism in all over Cambodia so their price is a  little bit higher compare to other cities in Cambodia even with Phnom Penh. The fact that almost all the people in Siem Reap at least in the down town can speak in English even I saw a beggar last night spoke in English very fluent. 




Ten minutes after departing from our guest house we enter the gate and stop to buy the entrance ticket. We buy one day visit cost 20 dollars. We have the ticket with our photos printed on it. It means that the ticket is not transferable. Angkor Complex is really huge stretching over 400 square kilometers. That’s why they also sell ticket for 3 days visit cost 40 dollars and 7 days visit cost 60 dollars. The Angkor Archaeological Park (the official name) was declared as the UNESCO World Heritage in 1992.



Angkor is hot and humid, we are lucky to come on July. According to some readings the best season to visit Angkor is October to December when the temperature is within 30o – 32o Celcius. Angkor is burning on April – May where the temperature can reach 35o – 40o Celcius :D. Just prepare your long sleeves also hat or cap or sunscreen lotion to avoid direct sun shine ;).



After the ticket booth, the driver takes us to the first complex destination, Angkor Wat. I always thought that Angkor Wat is the whole name for this site..  well.. it’s not. Angkor Wat is just one small complex over this huge Angkor Archaeological Park, is one of the main attractions in the complex, built during the early years of the 12th century by Suryavaram II. The process that lasts almost 4 centuries dedicated to Vishnu, this magnificent area has been abandoned and hidden by the forest, re-discovered by a French  150 years ago.
 

When we enter the Angkor Complex, some guards are checking our ticket and make sure the tickets is valid for today. We spend almost 2 hours in Angkor Wat Complex, admiring the architecture and relief on the walls of the outer galery and it reminds me back that we have the same same but different in Central Java, Indonesia – Borobudur :D. Some part of the Angkor Wat are closed due to restoration. The Angkor Wat is divided into two part the outer and central buildings. We take the chance to climb the  Central Buildings where the temple stands on a terrace raised higher than the city made of three rectangular galleries rising to a central tower, each level higher than the last. Once we reach the higher point we can see the whole view of the Angkor Wat complex. Stunning and amazing. No shorts and tank top outfit allowed to enter the central tower and the guards will make sure that you are already in a proper outfit otherwise they won’t let you in.


Finish with Angkor Wat, we continue with tuktuk to Angkor Thom Complex built in the late 12thcentury where the Bayon Temple located. Bayon temple is located at the central of the Angkor Thom Complex and become one of the major destination of people who is coming to visit the Angkor Archeological Park. The Bayon was built in the late 12th century dedicated to Buddha which most famous feature is the massive stone faces of the Avalokiteshvara. The temple is known also for two impressive sets of reliefs which present the mythological, historical and the everyday life scenes of the people living that era. Though ruins are everywhere but we still can see the temple mountain shape. Now the temple in some parts are being renovated. If Angkor Wat has a grand scale while Bayon is just in a small scale. We spend around 1 hour to see this stunning Bayon temple and then we continue to see more Angkor Complex.


Passing the streets around the Angkor Complex are so relaxing, though the sun shines very bright but the shade trees create a cool surrounding air. We don’t spend to much at the Angkor Thom then we continue to the next temple which is Ta Prohm located around 1 kilometer away from Angkor Thom complex. We enter this site and see two guards are on their post and checking our ticket and they ask where do we come from. When we proudly say we are Indonesian and suddenly this guy mention DJARUM :D. I am not sure what does he mean when we find out later he was talking about cigarettes. They are asking if we have the cigarettes and if we don’t mind they want to have it. Well, what I have is only Sampoerna and then I give two for them. They are really happy and asking a lot about Indonesia. They know that Indonesia has Borobudur temple which was built long before the Angkor. We are happy to find out even these two Cambodian guards know about Indonesia. After several talk, we continue enter the Ta Prohm complex.
 

Ta Prohm means Old Brahma which is now in progress of conservation and restoration after being abandoned and neglected for centuries. Some parts of the temple are closed for renovation and some part of the temple also has different color after being replaced with the new one. But the trees growing out of the ruins are perhaps the most impressive feature of Ta Prohm and makes this temple is becoming most visited and famous temple among all the main attractions at Angkor Archeological Park. Ta Prohm was once used for the site of Tomb Raider film. Following the map we have and use for the Angkor Archeoligical Park visit, Banteay Kdei is our next destination after Ta Prohm.  And then we’re leaving the Angkor Complex around 3 pm.



We feel very tired and exhausted yet excited after visiting the Angkor. One mission has been fulfilled to see the magnificent ancient Khmer glory through their architecture. Time is showing us 3pm in the afternoon and realize that we haven’t got any lunch. We’re heading back to the Siem Reap to have lunch nearby and going back to hostel afterwards for resting.


After resting and showering around 6.30 pm, we go out to have dinner in the middle of Siem Reap’s night life. At night, around the old market, there are hundreds of restaurants and pubs and we will have no trouble finding something which suits our tastes and budget. Lots of people mostly tourists are going out to have dinner or maybe just to hang out at this place. After some thought, we chose a street food in front of the Red Piano restaurant and Bar. We order a Khmer Barbeque Set Dinner served with rice, noodles and veggies.

Finish with dinner, we are going to the Angkor Night Market, which located not very far from the place where we have our dinner. Angkor Night Market sells a wide range of local products, handicrafts, Kramar – Khmer scarf etc with good quality. Bargaining is most welcome specially when you buy a lot of them ;). What is hip is a lot of fish massage stalls around this area. The price is ranging from 5 – 10 dollars per/hour and lots of them having this fish massage. While me?? I’d rather to have a real massage than fish massage hehehehe. We also watch the traditional Khmer dancing at the market.
 

7th Day – Leaving Siem Reap for Bangkok

Our bus leaves the city at 9 in the morning. We are heading west to Bangkok through the Cambodia west border, Poipet. We bought our 6.5 dollars ticket last night before having dinner, not sure what’s the name of this bus operator. We are on the same bus together with Steffi & Juergen, the CS Germany Couple we met in our Phnom Penh host. The small van stops one time and it’s a real slow. From Siem Reap to Poipet could be reached in just two hours when it becomes 3 hours.


We reach Poipet Immigration around 11.30 and get our own carrier, walk to the locket for passport stamping and then passing the border.  Unlike the border between West Vietnam (Moc Bai) and East Cambodia (Bavet), here is very crowded, dusty and dirty :D though there are lots of hotels and casinos. We pass the friendship bridge between Cambodia and Thailand and we are here at the East Thailand Border, Aranya Prathet. From the seven lockets only three are opened and it makes long queue on the stamp check. After passing the stamp check we and some of our groups are escorted to behind the immigration building and waiting for almost one hour, drive us to where the bus park and another one hour waiting and then we’re leaving the city at 2pm. So, we are waiting more than 2 hours *sigh.  We arrive at 7pm at Khao San Road, Bangkok. It’s raining and traffic jam one hour before the arrival plus our bus got machine problem though the driver can handle it later.  


Changing our money is the first thing we do and then we buy and eat our dinner from the stall in the middle of Khao San Road crowdedness. We are heading the Hua Lamphong Station afterward  to buy train ticket for tomorrow morning Ayutthaya Trip but the ticket can only be bought on the day. So, we are leaving the station and directly going to Sukhumvit area where Nikolay, our host, is waiting.  We take subway from station and stop at the Sukhumvit Soi 23. First we decide to go walk, but later because of raining and we are too tired and exhausted also we have to carry our backpack we decide to take the sky train. And the decision to go using sky train is even better knowing that if we force ourselves to walk we have to pass around three sky train stations @_@. We finally meet Nikolay after knocking on wrong’s door :D and sleeping is all what we need tonight.

South East Asia on a shoestring 3: Cambodia Overland

4th  Day – Leaving Vietnam for Cambodia!!
Our bus (SAPACO Tour) leaving at 9AM from Pham Ngu Lao. The journey is so smooth no bumpy, up and down, winding road. If I must say, its quite boring :D. The view is flat no mountain and hill view only paddy fields and local  houses. The weather is hot even I cannot feel the cool air from the bus air-con. Around 30 minutes after departing the guide collects the passport for immigration purpose and he comes back again to us and says that we need Visa On Arrival and would need USD 35.00 for the administration. We know that VOA entering Kingdom Cambodia will cost 20 dollars and the fee for each passport would be around 5 dollars but cheating for 15 dollars is just too much and the fact that our budget is only 25 dollars. We try to bargain but he doesn’t want to listen and ask us to do our own Visa On Arrival. Then after we pass the Vietnam border (Moc Bai) and reach the Cambodia border (Bavet), we are rushing to the Visa On Arrival section. To be honest, I feel panic and a little bit nervous, afraid that we will not be able to get our visa.
After fulfilling the form and give passport photo and I ask Grace and Felis to smile to the 4 immigration officers at their middle 40s with their fierce face and no smile at all :D. On the other side of our locket, the guide also dealing with the passport of the passengers. I don’t know whether this is only my feeling or not but it seems that the guide looks like talking to the officers and looking at us many times. The next  5 minutes, the officer asking for 22 dollars while the board above the locket stated that the VOA cost 20 dollars. Grace tries to argue but I ask her to just pay affraid if we argue he will not grant us the visa. We are just so lucky that they only ask for 2 dollars and we can get the VOA immediately. We are so relieve knowing our passports are back in hand with 30days length of stay in Cambodia. We are rushing for the immigration border and knowing that the guide still hasn’t finish with the other passports :D. After passing  the immigration with body temperature check-up we go to the bus.  

Entering the border, we see lots of beautiful yellow and gold buildings which we find out those are Hotels and Casinos. We stop at the restaurant for resting and to have lunch and then continue the journey for the next 3.5 hours heading Phnom Penh. I never thought Cambodia would be so hot like this. I am sweating inside the air-con bus.

We arrived at the Phnom Penh at 3.30pm with Tuk Tuk driver, Mr. Lung, waiting for us holding our name. Our host, Robert, already arranged a Tuk Tuk with 2 dollars and will take us to the street number 111, Boeng Pralit. Robert stays at an apartment at the 7th floor. And after conversation with him we are going down to have beers with Robert and his friend (forgot his name). The beer is cheap only half dollar but I only drink one because I didn’t have lunch before and I don’t want to take the risk of having tummy problem during my holiday.  Also we meet another couple couchsurfers from Germany Steffi and Juergen. They are staying together with us at Robert’s house.
After beer, we are heading together to have dinner. We walk around 10 minutes through, I am sure this should be, market at noon time because there is so many garbage on the street waiting to be picked up. We are heading The Orussey Market. According to Robert, all the people in Phnom Penh closes their business at 5. So the Orrusey market is dark now and what left behind is the food stalls in front of the building. This is one of the not so famous Tourist Attractions in Phnom Penh. The market is more frequented by the locals than the tourists in the city. The shops in the market generally sell essential items rather than souvenirs. That is why, tourists do not take much interest in visiting this market.

We are having dinner at Orrusey Restaurant right across the market. I have one big bowl of rice noodles with meatball which taste really great and you pay only 6.000 Riel around 1.25 dollar. This restaurant has lots of local menus with affordable price and taste good. After dinner, we are heading back to the house and decide not to go anywhere because we feel tired after the 6 hours journey by bus.

As per our friend, Kylie, who was here a week a go, suggestion she mentioned not to exchange the dollar to Riel (1 dollar = Riel 4.000, Riel is Cambodia Currency). Cambodia uses two currencies both USD and Riel. So anytime you can pay using dollar and if it has change they give you back in Riel. Example: if we buy water 0.75 dollar and we give 1 dollar, they will return the money in Riel around Riel 1.500 :D. It's really confusing at the first time, well.. actually the confusion still continues until we leave Cambodia hahahaaha.... :D.
5th Day  – Around Phnom Penh and Heading Siem Reap
We wake up around 6Am and ready to go around the city. Due to some reasons, we decided to leave Phnom Penh today and look for the bus ticket to go to Siem Reap. We bring our carrier to the hostel in front of Robert’s apartment named Spring Guest House and we buy the ticket from there for the price 5 dollars. Our departure is at 3.15pm so we still 6 hours to go around the city. We start booking our tuk tuk with 10 dollars and our first destination is the Royal palace.

The Royal Palace, Phnom Penh is actually a building complex which the residences of the Cambodian Kings. In the Khmer language the Royal Palace is called the "Preah Barom Reachea Vaeng Chaktomuk" built in 1886. The complex is divided by walls into three main areas, on the north side is the Silver Pagoda and to the south-west is the Khemarin Palace and a central compound containing the Throne Hall. The throne hall is the place from where the king's generals and officials performed their duties. The Silver Pagoda is a wonderful temple which is home to bejeweled Buddha statues and lots of national treasure. This Royal palace is absolutely beautiful with gold as its main color on the roof. This complex will absolutely spoil your eyes especially when the sunshine very bright on this day.  The Royal Palace is open to the public from 7:30-11 am and 2-5 pm daily with 6.25 dollar as the entrance fee. Quite expensive but for me its really worth the view ;).

After Royal Palace, we are going to Wat Phnom. But, we didn’t enter this area just to sit in front of the gate and taking some photos. Next, we are going to find lunch because we didn’t have our breakfast. The tuk tuk driver brings us to the riverside of Mekong River. Here we can see an open air park. The parks are the best locations to view the splendid beauty of the rivers especially at the point where they are meeting each other. In front of the park across the street is lined restaurant serving local and international delicacies and shops selling local products.

We finally decided to have lunch nearby the local market at the local restaurant. I eat local fried rice same with Grace while Felis is having meat and veggies. Then we are heading the Central Market of Phnom Penh. Central Market (Phsar Thmei) in Phnom Penh offers a wide variety of shopping products like Cambodian souvenirs, art, silks, handicrafts and curios. The building was built in the shape of a dome in 1937 and is now become the landmark of Phnom Penh. I buy some of the local fabrics from this market. This place has cheap price but compare to the Russian Market, this market is nothing :D.
We are heading to Russian market after visiting Central market. Our main mission is only one, SHOPPING :D. Russian market is on the opposite direction of the Central Market. It takes around 15 minutes to go by tuk tuk. The Russian Market itself is far less architectural interest than the Central Market but has a larger, more varied selection of souvenirs, curios and silks and cheap off course. We buy lots of T-shirts and local fabric called Kramar – a typical of Khmer scarf.
Right on 2.30pm, we are back to Spring Guest House and checking some e-mails on their free internet facility. Ow yeah.. one thing I like from this city is everywhere you go they have Wi-Fi everywhere for free. At the café, restaurants, workshop even at the bus terminal they also have Wi-Fi. No wonder there is only limited internet café in Phnom Penh.  The small van picks us at 3.30pm and they take us to the bus station. By 3.45pm the bus starts to move and slowly leaving the hectic afternoon of Phnom Penh City. We stop only once to have dinner and to take fresh air and we’re moving again the next 30 minutes.
We arrive at 9.30pm at Siem Reap Bus Station, I forgot what’s the name of this bus operator. But we are lucky to find we have tuktuk driver waiting for us to bring us to our guest house. Unfortunately, we have a slight argument with the driver since he forces us to go to the guest house that we don’t choose. I think this misunderstood was made when we were still in Phnom Penh with the reception at The Spring Guest House. We asked him to arrange tuktuk to our chosen guesthouse instead of he appointed the other guest house. So, we finally decide to stay one night at that guest house (forgot the name) and then moving the next day to The Garden Village.
Continue to: South East Asia on a shoestring 4: Amazing Angkor  

Serba Serbi Kamboja

Re-post
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Vietnam – Cambodia overland
"Selamat tinggal Ho Chi Minh! Minggu depan saya balik lagi yaa!", saya bergumam dalam hati, setelah 3 hari hilir mudik di kota terbesar di Vietnam tersebut hari ini saya meninggalkan kota itu menuju ke Cambodia, Phnom Penh lebih tepatnya.
Perjalanan 6 jam yang harus ditempuh sedikit membosankan. Melaui kaca bus ber-AC itu kesimpulan sudah ada di otak saya dan hanya satu kata saja ...FLAT. Pemandangannya rata serata jalan yang dilewati. Tidak ada gunung tidak ada bukit hanya pemandangan sawah.. sawah dan sawah...  dan sawah..dan rumah penduduk.. rumahpenduduk.. sawah.. sawah.. sawah lagi :D. Kalaupun ada pohon yang menclok ditengah sawah-sawah yang baru saja ditanam. Setelah itu sawah... sawah... sawah dan sawah ...
"Mirip ama Brebes nih. Brebes aja masih ada bukit, hutan, gunung, bawang, jagung, tebu dan pastinya sawah" gumam saya dalam hati. Dan saya pun jatuh tertidur di bus ber-AC itu yang sama sekali tidak sejuk karena kalah dengan teriknya matahari diluar sana ...zzzz...zzz...zzzz
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Indonesia vs Malaysia
"Where do you come from?" tanya salah satu knek bus yang kami tumpangi dari Phnom Penh ke Siem Reap, dengan bahasa Inggris beraksen Khmer dan sepertinya dia penasaran dengan kami karena berkulit sama dengan orang Kamboja tapi bahasanya beda.
"We're from Indonesia" jawab saya
"Oooo, Malaysia...!!!", jawab guide tersebut
"&%%$##$#@@!!!!" ..... terjemahain sendiri yak
Dan ini tidak terjadi hanya satu kali saja, tapi berkali-kali. Sebel dan BT tapi mau gimana lagi.... *Sigh
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Angkor vs Borobudur
"Jadi inget Borobudur ", Grace berkata demikian setelah sekian puluh menit berkeliling-keliling sekitar Komplek Angkor Wat yang panasnya mentereng. Dan saya pun meng-AMIN-kan perkataan Grace. Bukannya mau nyamain sih, tapi tiba-tiba saya memang jadi ingat dengan candi Buddha tersebut atau mungkin karena sama-sama candi Buddha yaaa ? :D
*Bersyukur karena Indonesia juga punya yang kaya gini, sama-sama tenar dan cakep, same same but different lah hhehehehe
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Rokok, Borobudur dan Penjaga Tiket Ta Prohm
"Where do  you  from", tanya penjaga itu dengan ramah saat sedang memeriksa tiket saat kami hendak memasuki areal Ta Prohm.
"We're from Indonesia", sahut kami kompak.
"Ahhh, Indonesia!" kata salah satu penjaga tersebut. "DJ***M!!"
"Excuse me?" jawab saya tidak mengerti
"The Cigarettes?" jawab penjaga tersebut
"Oh.. you know DJ***M? How do you know that cigarettes?" dengan antusiasnya kami menjawab.
"Indonesian tourist who came to this place gave us that cigarette, and we like it" jawab mereka
Dan sayapun memberikan kepada mereka 2 batang rokok A-M*** dari SAM*****A, walaupun mereknya beda. Dan perkacapan pun kembali berlanjut
"Don't you have the same like here too?.... Barubodur!?" tanya mereka
" You mean Borobudur? Yes, we do have Borobudur in Indonesia, the Buddhist temple. How do you know about Borobudur?" tanya saya.
"That Indonesia tourist told that and we know it also from book", they said.
WOW, *terkagum-kagum sama bahasa Inggris mereka dan ternyata mereka tahu tentang Indonesia (walaupun cuma rokok dan Borobudur).
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Mai, gadis kecil Kamboja penjual souvenir
Keluar dari kompleks Banteay Kdei kami disambut oleh beberapa anak kecil yang menawarkan barang dagangan atau sekedar makan dan minuman di kedai mereka. Salah satu anak perempuan menghampiri saya dan mengajak saya bercakap-cakap dengan bahasa Inggris.
"Hi Lady, do you want to buy drink" tanya anak perempuan kecil tersebut dengan aksen Khmer.
"No, thank you. I have my own drink already", jawab saya dengan tersenyum sambil berlalu dari hadapan anak kecil tersebut.
"Or maybe you want to have food,you can have the food at the restaurant there, lady",jawab sang bocah sambil berlari mengimbangi langkah saya dan menunjuk ke deretan gubuk-gubuk agak kejauhan disana.
"No, thank you", kata saya
"Do you want to buy my bracelet? It's one dollar for 10 bracelets" kata anak tersebut dengan gigih menawarkan barang jualannya kepada saya.
Dan lagi-lagi saya menjawab," No,thank you"
"Where do you come from Lady",kata sang bocah, mencoba mengajak saya bercakap-cakap.
"I come from Indonesia", jawab saya.
"Indonesia capital city is Jakarta and it's on Java island", kata bocah tersebut.
Dan perhatian saya pun mulai beralih ke bocah tersebut"You're right, where do you learn that from?And you have a very good English don't you know that?"
"Thank you. I learn it from the people who came here", jawab si bocah
What's your name, lady?", sambungnya lagi.
"My name is Lia.. and you?",saya balik bertanya
"My name is Mai. Nice to meet you Lia", jawab Mai.
"Nice to meet you too, Mai",jawab saya.
"Here I give you my bracelet foryour luck and hope you remember me wherever you go Lia", Mai pun memberikan satu gelang rotan kepada saya
"That's so sweet, Mai.  Thank you very much", jawab saya dengan terharu
Tak lama kemudian Felis juga bercerita kejadian yang sama. Kalau saya diberikan gelang oleh Mai, Felis mendapatkan kertas yang telah digambar oleh anak kecil yang berbeda.
Saya tidak tahu apakah itu merupakan salah satu trik mereka untuk mengambil hati para pengunjung supaya membeli souvenir mereka, yang pasti entah karena hati luluh ataupun saya memang suka memakai gelang, akhirnya, saya membeli gelang yang dijual oleh Mai tersebut :D.